Mackerel

Grill fillets skin-side down over medium-high heat for about 4 minutes, then turn and cook for 1–2 minutes more; the flesh should just turn opaque and flake easily. For whole fish, score the skin and grill for roughly 6–8 minutes per side, depending on size.

Choose fish with clear, bright eyes, shiny skin and a clean, sea-like smell; the flesh should feel firm and spring back when pressed. Mackerel spoils quickly, so buy it very fresh and keep it chilled until you cook it.

Only eat it raw if it has been handled and frozen specifically for raw consumption; ordinary fresh mackerel is not automatically safe to eat uncooked. Otherwise, cook it until the flesh is opaque and separates easily from the backbone.

Keep it covered in the coldest part of the fridge and cook it on the day you buy it, or freeze it promptly. Defrost frozen mackerel in the fridge, not on the worktop.

Its rich, oily flesh is balanced by sharp flavours: try lemon, vinegar, mustard, horseradish or pickled vegetables. It also works well with boiled potatoes, beetroot, cucumber and a crisp green salad.

Flake cooked or smoked mackerel and mix it with soft cheese or crème fraîche, lemon juice and black pepper; add horseradish or chopped herbs if you like. Serve it on toast or oatcakes.

Yes, hot-smoked mackerel is cooked and ready to eat; remove the skin and any bones before serving. Cold-smoked mackerel is smoked without being fully cooked, so follow its packaging instructions.