Clams

Rinse them under cold running water and scrub the shells. If they are gritty, soak them in cold salted water for about 20 minutes, then lift them out so the sand stays at the bottom; discard any with cracked shells or any that remain open when tapped.

Steam them in a covered pan with a splash of water, wine or stock for about 5–7 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice. They are ready when the shells open; discard any that stay shut.

Raw clams can carry harmful germs, so cooking them is the safer choice. Buy them from a reliable source, keep them chilled, and cook until the shells open; discard those that do not.

Keep live clams in the fridge in a bowl covered with a damp cloth, not in an airtight container or submerged in water. Use them as soon as possible, and discard any that smell sour or have broken shells.

Clams are a classic addition to linguine alle vongole, paella and seafood chowder. Add them near the end of cooking so they open without becoming tough.

Cockles make a close substitute in pasta, soups and seafood stews; mussels also work, though they have a stronger, meatier flavour. Adjust the cooking time to suit the substitute and remove shells as they open.

Clams provide 12 g of protein per 100 g. A practical serving is a small bowl of cooked clams, allowing for the weight of the shells.

Clams contain 12 g of protein per 100 g, compared with 12 g in mussels. Both are best cooked just until their shells open.