Anchovies

Warm oil gently, add chopped anchovies and stir for a minute or two until they dissolve. Keep the heat low so the oil does not spit or the fish turn crisp; garlic, chilli and tomatoes make a classic sauce.

Rinse off the surface salt, soak the fillets in cold water for about 10 minutes, then taste and soak longer if needed. Remove the backbone if it is still attached, pat the fillets dry and use them as you would anchovies in oil.

Anchovies in oil are ready to use and usually milder; drain them before adding them to a dish. Salt-packed anchovies need rinsing and often a short soak, but their firm texture and concentrated savouriness work well when you want to control the amount of oil.

Transfer any leftovers from an opened tin to a clean, covered container and refrigerate them. Keep jarred fillets submerged in their oil, use a clean utensil each time and follow the storage time given on the packaging.

Their salty, savoury flavour pairs well with tomatoes, olives, capers, garlic and lemon. Use them in puttanesca, on pizza, or mashed into a Caesar-style dressing; a small amount can deepen the flavour of a stew or vegetable dish without making it taste strongly of fish.

Yes. Anchovies packed in oil or salt are cured and ready to eat; drain or rinse them first if you want a less oily or salty result. Fresh anchovies are different: cook them thoroughly rather than treating them as a ready-to-eat tinned fish.

Ask for them cleaned, or remove the heads and innards, then rinse and dry them well. Toss with a little flour and fry in hot oil for about 2 minutes per side, until crisp and cooked through; serve with lemon.