Cockles

Soak live cockles in cold, lightly salted water for a few hours in the fridge, then lift them out so any grit stays at the bottom. Rinse them under cold running water before cooking.

Tip them into a covered pan with a splash of water or wine and steam over a high heat for about 3–5 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice. Take them off the heat as they open; discard any that remain closed.

Choose cockles with intact shells that are closed, or that close when tapped. Avoid any with cracked shells or an unpleasant smell.

Keep them in the fridge in a bowl covered with a damp cloth, not sealed in an airtight container or submerged in fresh water. Cook them as soon as possible, ideally the day you buy them.

Cockles are often served with vinegar, or cooked into Welsh cockles and laverbread. They also work in seafood pasta, chowder and dishes with garlic, parsley or white wine.

It is safer to cook cockles thoroughly, since raw shellfish can carry harmful germs. Steam them until their shells open, and discard any that stay shut.

Cockles provide 11 g of protein per 100 g, making them a protein-rich shellfish.