Squid

Cook it very fast over high heat, usually for 1–2 minutes, or braise it gently until tender, often for 30–45 minutes. The awkward middle ground—cooking it for several minutes without enough time to soften—is what makes it chewy.

Pull the head and tentacles away from the body, remove the clear quill and innards, then peel off the purple skin if you want a pale result. Cut just above the eyes to keep the tentacles, and remove the hard beak from their centre.

Thaw it in the fridge first, then drain and pat it very dry so it sears instead of steaming. For a quick meal, cook rings in a very hot pan for about 1–2 minutes.

Keep it covered in the coldest part of the fridge and cook it within a day of buying. For longer storage, freeze it promptly in an airtight pack; thaw it in the fridge before cooking.

Calamari is the Italian word commonly used for squid, especially on menus; it is not a separate animal. Rings sold as calamari are often cut from squid bodies.

Try quick-seared squid with lemon, garlic and parsley, or add it to seafood paella, pasta or a tomato-based stew. For crisp calamari, coat dry rings lightly in flour and fry in hot oil until just golden.

Squid is eaten raw in some dishes, but it must be intended for raw consumption and handled with strict cold hygiene; ordinary fresh squid is not automatically safe to eat uncooked. If you are unsure how it was handled, cook it thoroughly.

Squid provides 17 g of protein per 100 g, so it is a protein-rich seafood. A practical serving is a palm-sized portion, around 100–150 g before cooking.