Pulpo

“Pulpo” is the Spanish word for octopus, not a separate kind of seafood. It often appears on menus for Spanish-style octopus dishes.

Simmer it gently in water rather than boiling it hard; a whole octopus weighing about 1 kg often takes 45–60 minutes. Test the thickest part of a tentacle with a knife: it should slide in easily. Dipping the tentacles into boiling water three times before simmering helps them curl.

Freezing and thawing can help tenderise octopus by breaking down some of its tough muscle fibres. Pat thawed pulpo dry before grilling or searing it, so it browns instead of steaming.

Simmer the pulpo until tender, then cut the tentacles into slices and serve them over boiled potatoes. Finish with olive oil, coarse salt and sweet or hot paprika.

Keep raw pulpo covered in the coldest part of the fridge and cook it within one or two days of buying it. Refrigerate cooked pulpo promptly and use it within three days, or freeze it for longer storage.

Squid works in grilled or fried dishes, but it is not a close match for the thick, meaty tentacles of pulpo. It cooks much faster: grill squid briefly over high heat, or it can turn tough.

Pulpo is a mollusc, so it can trigger reactions in people allergic to molluscs. It is not made safe by cooking; avoid it if you have that allergy.