Squid

Cook it either very quickly over high heat—about 1–2 minutes in a hot pan—or slowly in a stew for around 30–45 minutes. The in-between stage tends to make it chewy.

Pull the head and tentacles away from the body, then remove the clear, feather-shaped quill from inside the body. Peel off the purple skin if you want a paler, neater result; it is edible.

Thaw it in the fridge overnight, then drain and pat it thoroughly dry so it sears rather than steams. If cooking it straight from frozen, use it in a stew or sauce, where the extra water is less of a problem.

Keep it covered in the coldest part of the fridge and cook it within a day or two of buying it. For longer storage, freeze it promptly; thaw it in the fridge and use it soon after thawing.

For calamari, coat rings lightly in seasoned flour and fry them briefly until golden, then serve with lemon. Squid also works well in Spanish-style rice dishes, pasta with tomato and chilli, and grilled whole with garlic and parsley.

Cuttlefish is the closest swap and can be cooked in much the same ways, though it is often thicker and benefits from slower cooking. Octopus is firmer and usually needs a longer simmer before grilling or serving in a salad.

Yes. A 100 g portion provides 23 g of protein, making squid a protein-rich ingredient for a meal.