Cauliflower cheese

Cook the cauliflower florets in boiling water for 4–5 minutes, then drain them very well. For the sauce, melt butter, stir in flour, gradually whisk in milk and simmer until thick; stir in grated mature Cheddar, pour over the cauliflower and bake at 200°C for 20–25 minutes until bubbling and golden.

Cook the florets until just tender, not soft, and drain them thoroughly. Let them steam-dry in the colander for a few minutes before adding the sauce; excess water from the cauliflower is the usual cause of a thin, watery bake.

Yes. Assemble it, cover and refrigerate for up to a day, then bake until piping hot throughout; it may need a few extra minutes if it goes into the oven cold. For a crisp top, add the breadcrumbs just before baking.

You can freeze it baked or unbaked in a well-sealed container, but the sauce may separate slightly when thawed. Defrost it in the fridge overnight, then reheat in the oven until piping hot throughout, rather than repeatedly warming and cooling it.

It is a classic side for a roast dinner, especially roast beef, but it also works with sausages, baked potatoes or a lentil loaf. Serve it with green vegetables or a sharp salad to balance the rich cheese sauce.

Mature Cheddar gives a strong flavour and melts smoothly into the sauce. A little Parmesan or another hard, savoury cheese adds a deeper, salty note; avoid using only very soft cheeses, which can make the sauce greasy.

Use an unsweetened plant drink and dairy-free butter to make the roux-based sauce, then stir in a dairy-free cheese that melts well. Check the sauce as it heats: some plant cheeses thicken less than Cheddar, so simmer it gently until it coats a spoon.