Dried beans

Soaking is not essential, but it shortens cooking and helps the beans cook evenly. Cover them generously with cold water for 8–12 hours, then drain and rinse; for a quicker soak, boil them for 2 minutes, take them off the heat and leave them covered for 1 hour.

After soaking, simmer them gently in fresh water until tender, usually for 45–90 minutes; older beans can take longer. Add acidic ingredients such as tomatoes or vinegar near the end, as they can slow softening.

Soak them, drain and rinse, then boil vigorously in fresh water for at least 10 minutes before simmering until tender. Do not cook dried kidney beans only in a slow cooker, as its low temperature may not destroy the beans’ natural toxins.

Keep them in an airtight container in a cool, dry cupboard, away from sunlight and moisture. They remain usable for a long time, but older beans may take much longer to soften, so buy an amount you can use within a reasonable period.

Dried beans are the base of dishes such as cassoulet, bean stews, chilli and baked beans. Add them to soups with vegetables and herbs, or mash cooked beans with olive oil, garlic and lemon for a simple spread.

Yes: use drained, rinsed tinned beans in place of cooked dried beans, adding them near the end so they do not break apart. As a rough guide, 250 g of cooked beans replaces about 100 g of dried beans.

Allow about 60–75 g of dried beans per person for a main dish; they expand substantially as they soak and cook. For a side dish or a soup with other filling ingredients, use less.