Pasta carbonara

Whisk eggs or yolks with finely grated Pecorino Romano and black pepper. Take the pan off the heat before tossing in the mixture, then loosen it with a splash of starchy pasta water so it turns glossy rather than scrambling.

Traditional carbonara uses guanciale, cured pork cheek, cut into small strips and fried until crisp at the edges. Pancetta is a common alternative; bacon gives a smokier flavour.

Yes. Parmesan is milder and less salty than Pecorino Romano; you can use either, or combine them for a less sharp, balanced cheese flavour.

Drain the pasta while it is still hot, but remove the frying pan from the hob before adding the egg-and-cheese mixture. Toss continuously and add pasta water a little at a time; direct heat is what makes the eggs set into lumps.

Cool it promptly, put it in a covered container and refrigerate it within two hours. Eat it within two days, and reheat it once until steaming hot, stirring with a little water to loosen the sauce.

A crisp green salad dressed with lemon or vinegar cuts through the rich sauce. Carbonara is usually filling on its own, so simple vegetables such as peas or tenderstem broccoli also work well.

The egg is gently cooked by the heat of the pasta, but the sauce may not reach a temperature that fully cooks it. Use pasteurised eggs if you need to avoid raw or lightly cooked egg.