Mushroom soup

Brown the mushrooms in batches over a fairly high heat before adding stock; crowding them makes them steam instead. A splash of soy sauce or a little dried porcini steeped in hot water adds savoury depth.

After browning the mushrooms and softening the onion, simmer the soup for about 15–20 minutes so the flavours come together. Blend it smooth, or leave some mushrooms whole for texture.

Yes, but soups thickened with cream can separate after thawing. Freeze it before adding cream, then thaw in the fridge, reheat gently until steaming and stir in the cream at the end.

Crusty bread, toast or a cheese sandwich makes a simple meal alongside it. A little chopped parsley, thyme or black pepper works well as a finishing touch.

Yes. Thick mushroom soup can bind a casserole of chicken, vegetables or pasta; loosen it with a splash of stock or milk if it is too dense. If using tinned soup, taste before adding salt, as it may already be well seasoned.

For a similar savoury base, use a thick white sauce with sautéed mushrooms and a little stock. If the recipe needs a creamy sauce rather than mushroom flavour, plain béchamel is a straightforward substitute.

Cream of mushroom soup is usually richer and more concentrated: it has 79 kcal and 5.3 g fat per 100 g, compared with 39 kcal and 2.6 g fat in mushroom soup. It is often sold as a condensed soup for cooking as well as eating.

Yes. Blend some of the cooked mushrooms into the stock to give the soup body, or add a potato and simmer until soft before blending. This keeps the soup creamy in texture without dairy cream.