Cauliflower

Cut it into evenly sized florets, dry them well and spread them in a single layer with a little oil. Roast at 220 °C for about 25–30 minutes, turning once, until browned at the edges and tender inside.

Boil florets for about 5–7 minutes, or steam them for 7–10 minutes, until a knife slips in but they still hold their shape. Drain well before adding butter, cheese sauce or a dressing so the dish does not turn watery.

Grate cauliflower on the large holes of a grater, or pulse florets briefly in a food processor until they resemble rice grains. Cook it in a wide frying pan for 5–7 minutes, stirring, so excess moisture can escape and the pieces stay distinct.

Keep it unwashed in the fridge, ideally in a loose bag or the vegetable drawer, and use it while the head is firm and pale. Store cut florets in an airtight container and use them within a few days; cooked cauliflower should be chilled promptly and eaten within about three days.

Cauliflower cheese is a classic way to serve it, while aloo gobi combines it with potatoes and spices. It also works well in soup, gratins and roasted vegetable trays.

Broccoli is a close swap in roasting, steaming and cheese bakes, though its flavour is greener and stronger. For cauliflower rice, finely chopped cabbage or grated kohlrabi can work, but cook them briefly because they soften differently.

Green cauliflower has the same familiar florets but a green colour from chlorophyll; it can be cooked in much the same way. Per 100 g, green cauliflower has 33 kcal and 3.04 g protein, compared with 21 kcal and 1.6 g protein in cauliflower.