Mushroom

Brush off soil with a soft brush or wipe with a damp cloth. If they are very dirty, rinse them quickly under cold water and dry them well; soaking makes them absorb water and brown less readily.

Use a hot, wide pan and cook in batches so the mushrooms sit in a single layer. Let them release their moisture and keep cooking until it evaporates and the edges brown; add butter or oil towards the end.

Sliced mushrooms usually take about 5–8 minutes in a hot frying pan, stirring occasionally, until tender and browned. Larger whole mushrooms may need 10–15 minutes; in the oven, roast them at 200 °C for about 20 minutes.

Keep them unwashed in a paper bag in the fridge, and use them while they are firm and dry. A paper bag lets moisture escape; a sealed plastic bag can make them damp and slimy.

For better texture, cook them first: fry sliced mushrooms until their moisture has evaporated, cool them quickly, then freeze in a sealed container. Frozen mushrooms are best added straight to soups, sauces or stews rather than thawed for salads.

Common cultivated mushrooms can be eaten raw, thinly sliced into salads, but cooking brings out their savoury flavour and makes them easier to chew. Never eat a wild mushroom unless it has been identified with certainty by an expert; some poisonous species resemble edible ones.

They work well in mushroom risotto, creamy mushroom soup, omelettes and pasta sauces. For a simple side, fry them with garlic and thyme, then finish with parsley or a little lemon juice.