Tomato paste

Tomato paste is cooked down much further, so it is thick, concentrated and intensely savoury; purée is looser and usually used in larger amounts. In recipes, use less paste than purée and add water or stock if you need a thinner tomato base.

Stir it into the softened onion, garlic or other aromatics and fry for about 1–2 minutes, until it darkens slightly and smells sweet rather than sharp. Keep stirring so the thick paste does not catch on the pan.

Start with a tablespoon for a pan of sauce serving about four people, then fry it briefly with the aromatics before adding liquid. It is concentrated, so add more only if the sauce needs a deeper tomato flavour.

Not on its own: paste is far thicker and more concentrated than chopped or whole tinned tomatoes. For a quick sauce, loosen a tablespoon of paste with water or stock, then simmer with herbs and seasoning; use chopped tomatoes when you want pieces and more volume.

Cook tomato purée or passata down in a wide pan until thick, stirring often; it will take longer and taste less concentrated. A little tomato sauce can add tomato flavour in a pinch, but reduce other liquid and seasoning because it is thinner and may already be salted.

Transfer any paste left in a tin to a clean, covered container and refrigerate it, using it within a few days. For longer storage, freeze small spoonfuls on a tray and move the frozen portions to a sealed container.

Frying briefly drives off some of its raw, metallic edge and caramelises its concentrated tomato sugars, giving sauces and stews a rounder flavour. Add liquid once the paste has darkened slightly; prolonged frying can make it burn.

The names can be confusing: British recipes usually mean a thick, concentrated paste by “tomato purée”, while some other English-speaking recipes use “tomato purée” for a thinner, smooth tomato preparation. Check the consistency and recipe context, and use a smaller amount if the product is thick paste.