Sweetbreads

Sweetbreads are edible glands, usually the thymus or pancreas of a young animal; despite the name, they are neither sweet nor bread. Butchers often label them by animal, such as veal, lamb or beef.

Soak them in cold water for an hour or two, changing the water if it becomes cloudy. Blanch for 3–5 minutes, cool in cold water, then peel away the thin membrane and trim any tough bits; pressing them between plates in the fridge helps them brown evenly.

After blanching and trimming, pat them very dry, cut into pieces and season lightly with salt and pepper. Fry in a hot pan with butter or oil for about 3–4 minutes per side, until golden and hot through; avoid crowding the pan.

Choose pieces that look fresh and moist, without a strong or sour smell, and ask the butcher whether they are thymus or pancreas. Keep them refrigerated and cook promptly; for longer storage, wrap well and freeze, then thaw in the fridge.

Their mild, creamy flavour suits lemon, parsley, capers and mushrooms. Serve them with crisp potatoes or toast, or use them in a rich sauce; in French cooking they are often served as ris de veau.

Sweetbreads are difficult to replace exactly because their tender, custardy texture is distinctive. For a similar mild offal flavour, try calf or lamb sweetbreads; chicken livers are firmer and more assertive, so they work better as a substitute in a sauce or pie than as a direct swap.

They can be rich: a 100 g portion contains 29 g of fat and 12 g of protein. A modest serving of about 100 g is a practical starting point, especially if you are serving them with a buttery sauce.