Potato

Use floury potatoes, cut them into even chunks and simmer in salted water for 15–20 minutes, until a knife slips in easily. Drain well, let them steam dry for a minute, then mash with warm milk and butter; avoid blending, which can make them gluey.

Cut them into even pieces, parboil for 8–10 minutes, then drain and shake the pan to roughen their edges. Roast in hot oil at 200 °C for about 45–60 minutes, turning once, until crisp and golden.

Keep them in a cool, dark, dry, well-ventilated place, in a paper or open bag rather than sealed plastic. Keep them away from onions, which can make them spoil faster, and use sprouted potatoes promptly after removing small sprouts.

Floury potatoes break down easily and make light mash or crisp roasties. Waxy potatoes hold their shape better in potato salad, soups and stews.

Avoid potatoes with green patches or a bitter taste: peeling may not remove all the natural toxins associated with greening. Discard potatoes that are extensively green, heavily sprouted or shrivelled.

Potatoes work in shepherd’s pie, potato salad, gratin, soup and Spanish tortilla. They also pair well with eggs, cheese, herbs and roasted meat.

A potato is a tuber: a swollen underground stem that stores energy for the plant. The small ‘eyes’ on its surface are buds that can grow into new shoots.