Potatoes

Put peeled or cut potatoes straight into a bowl of cold water and cook them soon; prolonged soaking can wash away some of their starch. Drain and dry them well before roasting or frying.

Cut them into evenly sized chunks, cover with cold salted water and simmer for about 12–15 minutes, until a knife slides in easily. Drain thoroughly, then let them steam in the pan for a minute before mashing.

Choose a floury potato, such as Maris Piper or King Edward: its rough, starchy surface turns crisp after you parboil and shake the drained chunks to roughen them. Roast in hot oil at about 200 °C for 45–60 minutes, turning once.

Keep them in a cool, dark, dry, well-ventilated place, such as a paper or hessian bag in a cupboard. Keep them away from onions, and avoid storing them in the fridge, where their flavour and cooking colour can change.

A small sprout can be cut out generously, but discard potatoes that are extensively sprouted, shrivelled or green. Green colour can signal elevated natural toxins, and cooking does not reliably remove them.

Yes, but new potatoes have thin skins and a waxier texture, so they hold their shape well in salads and casseroles rather than breaking down into fluffy mash. Scrub them instead of peeling, then boil until just tender.

Potatoes pair well with herbs such as rosemary, thyme and dill, as well as butter, olive oil, garlic and mustard. They are the base of dishes including shepherd’s pie, potato salad, dauphinoise and Spanish tortilla.