Ocean perch

Put the fillets in a lightly oiled baking dish, season and bake at 200 °C for about 10–12 minutes, until opaque and just beginning to flake. Thicker pieces may need a few minutes more.

Pat the fillets dry and cook them in a lightly oiled, hot frying pan, skin-side down if they have skin, for 3–4 minutes. Turn carefully and cook for another 2–3 minutes, until the flesh flakes easily.

Look for moist, firm flesh that springs back when pressed, with a mild sea smell rather than a strong fishy or sour odour. If buying whole, the eyes should look clear, not cloudy or sunken.

Keep fresh fillets covered in the coldest part of the fridge and cook them within one or two days. For longer storage, wrap them airtight and freeze; thaw overnight in the fridge before cooking.

Its mild flavour works well with lemon, parsley, capers or a light butter sauce. Serve it with boiled new potatoes and greens, or use it in fish tacos with crunchy cabbage.

Yes. Cod is a good substitute in baked fillets, fishcakes and soups, though it has a firmer, chunkier texture. Per 100 g, cod has about 18 g protein, compared with 22 g in ocean perch.

The names overlap: ocean perch is sometimes sold as redfish, but common names can refer to different species in different markets. Check the scientific name if you need to know exactly which fish you are buying.

Fillets are usually pin-boned, but a small bone can remain. Run your finger along the centre of the raw fillet and pull out any bones you find with clean tweezers.