Gilt head fish

Only use fish sold or prepared as suitable for raw eating, keep it thoroughly chilled and prepare it with clean hands and utensils. Citrus juice in ceviche does not make unsuitable fish safe to eat raw.

Slash the thickest part of the fish two or three times on each side, rub with olive oil and season, then roast at 200 °C for about 20–25 minutes, depending on its size. It is done when the flesh is opaque and separates easily from the bone.

Keep it covered in the coldest part of the fridge and cook it within one to two days of buying. If you will not use it in that time, wrap it well and freeze it; thaw it in the fridge, not on the worktop.

Lemon, garlic, parsley, fennel and olive oil suit its mild flavour. Serve it with potatoes or grilled vegetables, or use the fillets in a Mediterranean-style fish stew.

Sea bass is a good substitute when you want a similarly mild, firm white fish that can be roasted whole or cooked as fillets. For a whole fish, choose one of a similar size so the cooking time is close.

Gilt-head fish is a type of sea bream, often called gilthead seabream. The gold-coloured mark between its eyes is the feature behind the name.

Pat the fish dry, oil both the fish and the clean, hot grill, and turn it only once the skin releases easily. For whole fish, a fish basket makes turning simpler and helps keep the skin intact.