Tomatoes

Let firm, unripe tomatoes ripen at room temperature, out of direct sun. Once ripe, you can refrigerate them to slow spoilage; bring them back to room temperature before eating for fuller flavour.

Cut a shallow cross in the base, lower them into boiling water for about 20 seconds, then transfer them to cold water. The skins should slip off easily.

Halve them, place them cut-side up on a tray with a little oil, and roast at 200 °C for 25–35 minutes, until softened and browned at the edges. They’re good in pasta, soups or on toast.

Choose ripe, fragrant tomatoes that feel heavy for their size for salads; cherry tomatoes are especially handy for roasting whole. For a thick sauce, plum tomatoes are a good choice because they tend to have less watery flesh.

Use tinned chopped tomatoes in sauces, soups and stews; a 400 g tin is a practical substitute for about four medium tomatoes. Simmer the dish uncovered if it needs to reduce and thicken.

Tomatoes pair well with basil, garlic, olive oil and mozzarella. They’re central to dishes such as gazpacho, shakshuka and tomato salsa.

Botanically, tomatoes are fruits because they develop from a flower and contain seeds. In cooking, they’re treated as vegetables because they’re usually used in savoury dishes.