Fish

Fresh fish should smell mild and clean, not strongly fishy or sour, and its flesh should look moist and spring back when pressed. Buy it chilled, keep it cold on the journey home and refrigerate it promptly.

For a typical fillet about 2 cm thick, bake at 200°C for roughly 10–12 minutes; thicker pieces need longer. It is ready when the flesh turns opaque and separates easily into flakes.

Pat the fish dry and heat a lightly oiled pan before adding it, skin-side down if it has skin. Leave it undisturbed until the flesh turns opaque most of the way up the sides, then turn it once.

Use raw fish within one or two days. Keep it covered on the coldest shelf, ideally in a dish that catches drips, and freeze it if you will not cook it in that time.

Lemon, parsley, dill and capers brighten many fish dishes; serve them with potatoes, peas or a crisp salad. Fish also works well in fish pie, chowder and fishcakes.

Only use fish intended for raw eating, and keep it very cold until serving. Freezing can kill parasites, but it does not remove harmful bacteria, so raw fish is not suitable for everyone.

Usually, but lean fish cooks more quickly and can dry out, so check it early and avoid prolonged cooking. For a richer result, add a little olive oil or finish the dish with butter or a creamy sauce.