Aubergine

Usually not: modern aubergines are rarely so bitter that salting is needed. Salt slices only if you want them to release moisture before frying; leave them for about 30 minutes, then pat them dry so they brown rather than steam.

Prick the aubergine several times and roast it whole at 220 °C for 40–60 minutes, turning once, until the skin is charred and the flesh collapses. Scoop out the soft flesh and mix it with tahini, lemon juice, garlic and salt.

Brush cut surfaces lightly with oil rather than pouring oil into the pan, and cook in a hot pan in a single layer. For a less oily result, roast aubergine chunks at 220 °C for about 25–35 minutes, turning once.

Choose one that feels heavy for its size, with smooth, glossy, taut skin and a green, fresh-looking cap. A soft patch or wrinkled skin suggests it is past its best.

Keep it whole and unwashed in a cool, dry place and use it within a few days; chilling can make it deteriorate faster. Once cut, wrap it or put it in a sealed container in the fridge and use it promptly, as the exposed flesh browns quickly.

Aubergine is central to dishes such as ratatouille, moussaka, caponata and baba ganoush. It also works well roasted with tomatoes and chickpeas, or sliced and grilled to serve with yoghurt and herbs.

Yes, but raw aubergine can turn spongy after thawing. Slice or cube it, blanch for about four minutes, cool quickly in cold water, drain and freeze; use it in cooked dishes such as stews or pasta sauces.

You can, but it is usually firm, slightly bitter and less pleasant than when cooked. Roasting, grilling or stewing softens the flesh and brings out its savoury flavour.