Asparagus risotto

Cut the stalks into bite-sized pieces and add them near the end, so they cook in the hot rice without turning soft and dull. Add the tips a few minutes after the thicker pieces, as they cook faster.

Use a short-grain risotto rice such as Arborio or Carnaroli; both release starch as you stir, giving the dish its creamy texture. Don’t rinse the rice first, or you’ll wash away some of that surface starch.

Yes. Add it straight from frozen near the end of cooking; it usually needs a few extra minutes compared with fresh asparagus. Avoid thawing it first, as it can become watery and limp.

Bend each spear gently near the base and it will snap where the woody end begins; discard that end. Slice the tender stalks and keep the tips whole so they look attractive in the finished risotto.

Lemon zest, black pepper and grated Parmesan bring out asparagus’s fresh flavour. For a fuller meal, serve it with a green salad, or stir in peas, broad beans or cooked prawns.

Cool it promptly, refrigerate in a covered container and eat within two days. Reheat only once in a pan with a splash of stock or water, stirring until piping hot throughout.

Yes: chill the risotto until firm, shape it into small balls or patties, then coat with breadcrumbs and fry until crisp and hot in the centre. This is a handy way to make arancini-style bites.