Oyster

Use a folded tea towel to hold the oyster, with the cupped shell underneath. Push an oyster knife into the hinge and twist until it gives; slide the blade under the top shell to cut the muscle, keeping the liquor in the shell.

Choose oysters with tightly closed shells, or ones that close when tapped. Avoid cracked shells and discard any that stay open when tapped or smell unpleasant.

Keep them in the fridge in a bowl, cupped side down, under a damp cloth; don’t seal them in an airtight container or submerge them in water. Use them within a couple of days and discard any that have opened and won’t close when tapped.

Raw oysters can carry harmful germs even when they look and smell fresh. Cooking them thoroughly is the safer choice; if you eat them raw, keep them chilled and serve them promptly.

Grill them over high heat or bake them at 220°C until the shells open, usually in about 5–10 minutes. Remove each as it opens; discard any that remain shut.

Serve raw oysters with lemon, shallot vinegar or a sharp mignonette sauce. They’re also good grilled with garlic butter, or baked with breadcrumbs and cheese as oysters Rockefeller.

For a similar briny taste and texture, use clams or mussels; cook them until their shells open. For oyster sauce in a stir-fry, use a mushroom-based vegetarian oyster sauce.