Chinese 5 spice

The classic blend combines star anise, cloves, Chinese cinnamon, Sichuan pepper and fennel seeds. Ready-made mixes vary, so the flavour can range from sweet and liquorice-like to peppery.

Start with about half a teaspoon for a dish serving four, then add more only if needed: its star anise and cloves can quickly dominate. For a marinade, mix it with soy sauce, ginger and a little oil.

Add it early to a braise or stew so it has time to infuse; for a quick stir-fry, add a small pinch with the other aromatics. Avoid frying it for long over high heat, which can make the spices taste bitter.

It is especially good with pork, duck and chicken, as well as tofu, aubergine and roasted squash. Use it in red-braised pork, roast duck marinades or a small amount in fried rice.

Yes: toast whole star anise, cloves, cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorns and fennel seeds briefly in a dry pan until fragrant, then cool and grind finely. Store the blend airtight; freshly ground spices lose their punch sooner than whole spices.

Keep it in a tightly sealed jar in a cool, dark, dry cupboard, away from the cooker and steam. Ground spice gradually loses aroma, so buy a small quantity and replace it when it smells faint.

No. Allspice is a single dried berry with a flavour reminiscent of clove, cinnamon and nutmeg; Chinese five-spice is a blend, usually led by star anise. Ground allspice contains 1.7 mg manganese per 100 g, compared with 8.4 mg in Chinese five-spice.

Yes; a pinch works in poached pears, apple compote, ginger biscuits or hot chocolate. Add it sparingly, since too much can make a dessert taste savoury or medicinal.