Gulai Pakis - stewed fern tips from Bali

Ingredients

• 3 bunchesfern tips (pakis)
• 1,000 mlcoconut milk
• 50 gsalted anchovies (ikan asin)
• 1turmeric leaf
• 1 sprigbasil
• 2 stalkslemongrass
• 3kaffir limes (jeruk purut)
• 3red chillies
• 3red chillies, deseeded
• 5shallots
• 3 clovesgarlic
• 2red bird’s eye chillies
• 2 cmturmeric
• 1 cmginger
• 2 cmgalangal
• 2 tspsalt

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the paste

   Pound or grind the chillies, shallots, garlic, bird’s eye chillies, turmeric, ginger, galangal and salt to a fine paste.

2. 2

   Heat the coconut

   Put the coconut milk in a pan with the spice paste, turmeric leaf, basil, lemongrass and kaffir limes. Bring to the boil.

3. 3

   Simmer the pakis

   Add the fern tips and salted anchovies. Cook until the fern tips are done and the sauce has thickened.

What is gulai pakis?

Gulai pakis is a coconut-based stew made with pakis, or fern tips. It belongs to Indonesia’s wider family of gulai dishes, in which spices and coconut milk create a richly flavoured sauce.

This version is associated with Bali and combines the leafy fern with salted fish, aromatic herbs and a fresh spice paste. The fern gives the stew its character, while the coconut sauce brings the ingredients together.

Nutrition and macros by portion

The nutrition label shows one serving as written: 1750 calories, 0g protein, 0g carbs, 0g fat.

The coconut milk supplies most of the dish’s fat, while the fern tips and aromatics contribute carbohydrates; the salted anchovies provide some protein. Serve it with a sensible portion of rice and extra vegetables if you want a more balanced plate.

The fern tips

Pakis: use the tender fern tips and discard any tough portions. Give them a good rinse before adding them to the pan.

Doneness: cook them until tender rather than relying only on the sauce’s appearance. The recipe gives no set cooking time, so check the fern tips as they simmer.

Building the spice base

Fresh paste: pounding or grinding the chillies, shallots, garlic and other spices finely helps them disperse through the coconut milk. Aim for an even paste without large pieces.

Chillies: the recipe lists both red chillies and deseeded red chillies, as well as bird’s eye chillies. Keep the listed amounts for the intended flavour, or adjust the heat by reducing the chillies.

Aromatic ingredients

Herbs: turmeric leaf, basil and lemongrass flavour the coconut milk as it heats. Bruise the lemongrass lightly if you want to help release its aroma, then leave it in the stew while it cooks.

Kaffir limes: these add a bright citrus fragrance alongside the herbs. Add them with the coconut milk and spice paste, as directed.

Getting the sauce right

Gentle heat: bring the coconut milk to the boil with the paste and aromatics, then keep an eye on it as the fern and anchovies cook. Stir from time to time so the sauce heats evenly.

Thickness: the stew is ready when the fern tips are done and the sauce has thickened. The recipe does not specify a fixed cooking time after adding them, so use those cues rather than a timer.

Serving gulai pakis

Serve the stew hot, with rice to soak up the coconut sauce. Plain rice is a simple match for its aromatic, savoury flavours.

Because the salted anchovies season the pot, taste the sauce before adding anything extra at the table.

Recipe notes & tips

• Rinse the fern tips well and remove any coarse, tough ends.
• Grind the spice mixture finely so it blends smoothly into the sauce.
• Bruise the lemongrass lightly to release more of its aroma.
• Stir the coconut milk as it heats to help it cook evenly.
• Taste before adding extra salt because the anchovies are salted.

Variations

• Milder heat: reduce the bird’s eye chillies for a gentler spice level.
• More citrus: add a little extra kaffir lime zest for a brighter aroma.
• Extra greens: stir in another tender leafy vegetable alongside the fern tips.
• Rice pairing: serve with steamed rice to make the coconut sauce go further.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Rough spice paste: grind the aromatics finely so the sauce has an even flavour.
• Tough fern tips: remove coarse portions and cook the greens until tender.
• Scorching coconut milk: keep the heat controlled and stir as it comes to the boil.
• Over-salting: taste the finished sauce before adding more salt, as the anchovies are salty.
• Guessing doneness by time: check that the fern tips are cooked and the sauce has thickened.

How to store

Refrigerate leftovers in a covered container and use within 3 days. Reheat gently in a pan until steaming hot, stirring regularly; loosen the sauce with a little water if it has thickened in the fridge.

Frequently asked questions