How to make a cod pil-pil style using a traditional recipe from the Basque country by Sergio Sanz Blanco at Ametsa

Ingredients

• 600 gsalt cod
• 350 golive oil
• 6 clovesgarlic
• 1dried red chilli

Instructions

1. 1

   Desalt the cod

   Soak the salt cod in fresh water for 2 days before cooking, changing the water as needed.

2. 2

   Brown the garlic

   Slice the garlic and brown it in the olive oil in a wide, flat pan.

3. 3

   Set garlic aside

   Lift the browned garlic out of the oil and set it aside.

4. 4

   Fry the chilli

   If you like chilli, fry it in the same oil, then set it aside with the garlic.

5. 5

   Cook the cod

   Put the cod in the pan with its skin facing upwards and cook it very gently over a low heat.

6. 6

   Begin the emulsion

   Remove most of the oil from the pan, leaving the cod in place. Take the pan off the heat and move it in a clockwise motion while slowly adding the oil.

7. 7

   Add cold water

   To help the emulsion form, add a few drops of cold water from time to time.

8. 8

   Check the sauce

   Continue until the oil and cod gelatin form a pale sauce with the soft, creamy texture of mayonnaise.

9. 9

   Warm the sauce

   Warm it gently, keeping the pan moving so the sauce does not split; avoid exposing it to high heat.

10. 10

    Finish and serve

    Add the reserved garlic slices and chilli, then serve.

What is cod pil-pil?

Cod pil-pil is a traditional Basque preparation in which salt cod is cooked gently in olive oil and the oil is worked into a sauce with the fish’s gelatin. The name is associated with the gentle bubbling of the fish as it cooks.

This version keeps the ingredients simple: cod, olive oil, garlic and dried red chilli. Its defining feature is the emulsion, which turns the cooking oil into a pale, glossy sauce.

Nutrition and macros by portion

The nutrition label shows one serving as written: 960 calories, 36g protein, 1g carbs, 89g fat.

The cod provides most of the protein, while the olive oil supplies the bulk of the energy and fat; the garlic contributes only a small amount of carbohydrate. Pair a portion with vegetables and, if wanted, a modest serving of potatoes or bread for a more balanced plate.

Start with properly desalted cod

Salt cod: soak it in fresh water for the full 2 days stated in the method before cooking. The fish should be desalted before it goes into the pan; residual saltiness can vary, so taste a small piece once it is ready.

Water changes: the recipe does not specify how often to change the soaking water. Changing it periodically helps draw salt out; keep the fish refrigerated while it soaks.

Choose a wide, flat pan

Pan shape: a broad, flat pan gives the cod room to sit in a single layer and makes it easier to move the pan while forming the sauce. Use one with a stable base and enough room to add the oil gradually.

Garlic: slice it and brown it in the oil, then lift it out before adding the cod. Keep an eye on it, as very dark garlic can taste bitter.

Keep the cod cooking gently

Low heat: cook the cod slowly with the skin facing upwards, as directed. Gentle heat helps release the fish gelatin into the oil without aggressively frying the fish.

Doneness: the recipe gives no cooking time, so use the fish as your guide. It should be opaque and separate into moist flakes when gently tested; avoid letting it cook until dry.

Build the pil-pil emulsion

Off the heat: remove most of the oil, leaving the fish in the pan, then take the pan off the heat before starting the emulsion. Move it clockwise and add the oil slowly rather than pouring it in all at once.

Cold water: the method suggests adding a few drops from time to time to help the sauce come together. The finished sauce should look pale and creamy; gentle, steady movement matters more than speed.

Keep the sauce together

Gentle warmth: once the sauce has formed, warm it carefully and keep the pan moving. High heat can cause the oil and gelatin to separate.

If it starts to split: take the pan off the heat and keep moving it gently. Avoid adding all the reserved oil at once, which can make the emulsion harder to maintain.

Serve it simply

Finish: return the browned garlic and fried chilli to the pan just before serving. The chilli is optional in the method, so leave it out if you prefer a milder dish.

On the plate: serve the cod with the pil-pil sauce and a simple vegetable side, such as steamed greens. Bread or boiled potatoes can also help make the olive-oil-rich sauce part of the meal.

Recipe notes & tips

• Keep the cod refrigerated while it soaks for 2 days.
• Use a wide, flat pan so the cod sits comfortably and the pan is easy to move.
• Brown the garlic gently and remove it as soon as it is golden.
• Add the oil slowly while the pan is off the heat.
• Use only a few drops of cold water at a time to help the sauce emulsify.
• Warm the finished sauce gently and keep the pan moving.

Variations

• Milder garlic: brown the slices lightly and remove them promptly to keep their flavour gentle.
• No chilli: skip the dried red chilli for a milder dish.
• More chilli warmth: fry the chilli in the oil as directed and serve it with the garlic.
• Add potatoes: serve with boiled potatoes to make the meal more substantial.
• Vegetable side: pair the cod with steamed greens for a fresh contrast to the rich sauce.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Insufficient soaking: the cod may remain too salty; soak it in fresh water for the full 2 days before cooking.
• High cooking heat: the cod can dry out; keep it over a low heat.
• Burnt garlic: it can turn bitter; brown the slices gently and remove them once golden.
• Adding oil too quickly: the sauce may not emulsify smoothly; add it gradually while moving the pan.
• Emulsifying over heat: the sauce may split; take the pan off the heat while building the emulsion.
• Overheating the finished sauce: it can separate; warm it gently and keep the pan moving.

How to store

Refrigerate leftovers promptly in a covered container and use within 1–2 days. Reheat gently in a pan over low heat, moving the pan carefully; avoid boiling, which may split the sauce.

Frequently asked questions