Stuffed squid

Ingredients

• 2 large (about 600 g each)squid
• 80 ml (⅓ cup)extra-virgin olive oil
• 105 g (1½ cups)fresh breadcrumbs
• 1golden shallot, finely diced
• 2garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 tbspdrained capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped
• 50 gpitted green olives, coarsely chopped
• 15 gpecorino, finely grated
• ½ cup each, firmly packedmint and parsley, finely chopped
• 1 tbsp, plus extra leaves to servemarjoram, finely chopped
• 1 tspred wine vinegar
• Zest of 1lemon, finely grated
• For the saucetomato sauce
• 2 tbspextra-virgin olive oil
• 2golden shallots, finely diced
• 4garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 2marjoram sprigs
• 125 ml (½ cup)dry white wine
• 400 g cancrushed tomatoes
• 200 mlwater
• To tastesalt and black pepper

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the sauce

   For the tomato sauce, warm the oil in a saucepan over low heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring now and then, for 8–10 minutes until softened. Stir in the garlic and marjoram and cook for 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the wine and let it reduce by half, about 1–2 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes. Take the pan off the heat, season to taste and set aside.

2. 2

   Prepare the squid

   Clean the squid, keeping the tentacles and wings. Finely chop these parts and set them aside.

3. 3

   Make the filling

   Heat half the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the breadcrumbs and toast, stirring, for about 5 minutes until lightly golden; transfer them to a large bowl and wipe the pan clean. Return the pan to low heat and cook the shallot, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until soft. Turn the heat to high, add the chopped tentacles and wings, and cook for 2–3 minutes until opaque. Add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant. Transfer everything to the bowl of breadcrumbs and leave to cool. Mix in the capers, olives, pecorino, herbs, vinegar and lemon zest, then season to taste. Spoon the mixture into the squid without packing them too full and secure the openings with toothpicks.

4. 4

   Brown and simmer

   Heat the remaining oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Brown the stuffed squid on all sides for about 8 minutes. Add the tomato sauce and 200 ml water and bring to a simmer. Turn the heat to low, cover and cook for 35–40 minutes, until tender.

5. 5

   Slice and serve

   With tongs, carefully move the squid to a chopping board and cut it into thick rounds. Spoon the sauce onto a serving platter, arrange the squid on top and scatter with extra marjoram leaves.

What is stuffed squid?

Stuffed squid is a familiar kind of Mediterranean home cooking: whole squid are filled, then cooked gently so the stuffing takes on flavour from the sauce. Versions vary from kitchen to kitchen, and this one brings together breadcrumbs, herbs, salty olives and capers, and a little pecorino.

The filling is toasted before it goes into the squid, which gives it a savoury base, while the tomato and wine sauce keeps the finished dish moist. The recipe is also a family favourite for cookbook author Julia Busuttil Nishimura, who recalls her grandmother making it for Sunday lunches.

Nutrition and macros by portion

The nutrition label shows one serving as written: 660 calories, 57g protein, 42g carbs, 28g fat.

The squid and pecorino provide most of the protein, while the breadcrumbs and tomatoes contribute much of the carbohydrate. Olive oil and the olives account for much of the fat, with the capers, cheese and olives also adding sodium. Pair a portion with salad or greens, and add bread according to how filling you want the meal to be.

Build the tomato sauce

Shallot first: cook it slowly until soft rather than browned, so it becomes sweet and mellow. Garlic and marjoram need only a brief time in the pan; this brings out their aroma without letting the garlic catch.

Wine reduction: let the wine reduce by half before adding the tomatoes. This concentrates its flavour and leaves the sauce ready to finish cooking with the squid.

Get the filling right

Toasted crumbs: stir them in the pan until lightly golden, then give them time to cool before mixing in the other filling ingredients. This helps them keep their texture and makes the mixture easier to handle.

Squid pieces: finely chop the reserved tentacles and wings so they distribute evenly through the breadcrumbs. The capers, olives, pecorino and herbs give the stuffing contrasting salty, savoury and fresh notes.

Fill without overpacking

Leave some room inside each squid rather than pressing in every last bit of filling. A loose fill gives the stuffing space as it cooks and makes it less likely to escape or split the squid.

Secure the openings with toothpicks, and take care when turning the squid in the pan. They are easier to keep intact when handled gently with tongs.

Cook until tender

Brown the squid on all sides first to give the outside colour, then simmer it covered in the tomato sauce and water. Keep the heat low once the pan reaches a simmer; a vigorous boil can make the squid tough.

Start checking for tenderness towards the end of the 35–40-minute cooking time. The squid should be easy to cut, and the sauce should be gently bubbling rather than rapidly boiling.

Slice and serve

Let the cooked squid rest briefly on the chopping board before cutting it into thick rounds, so the filling is less likely to fall out. Arrange the slices over the sauce rather than stirring them through it.

Serve with bread to mop up the tomato sauce, or alongside a simple salad or cooked greens. The dish is rich and savoury, so a crisp, fresh side makes a useful contrast.

Recipe notes & tips

• Ask your fishmonger to clean the squid if you would rather not prepare it yourself.
• Keep the tentacles and wings for the filling; they add squid flavour and make use of the whole cleaned squid.
• Toast the breadcrumbs over a steady heat and stir them often for even colour.
• Cool the breadcrumb and squid mixture before adding the herbs, cheese and olives.
• Secure each squid opening with a toothpick, but leave room for the filling to expand.
• Turn the squid carefully while browning to help keep the bodies intact.

Variations

• Herb balance: adjust the proportions of mint, parsley and marjoram while keeping the combined amount similar.
• Olive choice: use another pitted olive variety if green olives are unavailable.
• Cheese swap: use finely grated hard sheep’s cheese in place of pecorino.
• Citrus lift: add a little extra lemon zest to make the filling more fragrant.
• Serving greens: serve with wilted greens or a crisp salad for a fresher contrast.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Overfilling the squid: leave space inside so the filling can settle as it cooks.
• Skipping the breadcrumb toasting: toast until lightly golden to give the filling a deeper flavour.
• Adding herbs to hot filling: let the mixture cool first so the herbs stay fresh-tasting.
• Boiling the sauce hard: lower the heat after it simmers to help the squid turn tender.
• Cutting the squid straight from the pan: transfer it carefully and let it rest briefly before slicing.

How to store

Cool leftovers promptly and keep them in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days. Reheat gently in a covered pan with the sauce until piping hot; avoid prolonged high heat, which can toughen the squid.

Frequently asked questions