Tuna

Pat it dry, brush it lightly with oil and sear it in a very hot pan for about 1–2 minutes per side, depending on thickness. For a fully cooked steak, check that the centre reaches 63 °C; it will be less pink but safer to eat.

Choose tuna in spring water for a lighter, less oily result, or tuna in oil when you want it richer for salads or sandwiches. Solid or steak-style tuna holds together; flaked tuna mixes easily into pasta and fillings.

Transfer leftovers to a covered container, refrigerate promptly and use within 1–2 days. Don’t store it in the opened tin, and discard it if it has been left at room temperature for more than 2 hours.

Tuna works with lemon, olive oil, capers, tomatoes and crunchy vegetables. Use it in a Niçoise salad, a tuna melt, pasta with peas, or a sandwich with cucumber and a little mayonnaise.

Yes, especially in pasta, salads, sandwiches and fishcakes; drain it first and fold it in near the end so it doesn’t break down too much. It won’t give you the seared texture of a fresh tuna steak.

Canned salmon makes a similar, flaky filling, while mashed chickpeas with lemon and a little mayonnaise give a meat-free option. Add capers or chopped celery for a savoury, crunchy finish.