Mutton brain

Both are sheep brain; “lamb” and “mutton” refer to the animal’s age. You can prepare them in much the same way, though lamb’s brain may be smaller.

If it has not been cleaned, briefly blanch it, then ease away the thin membrane and any visible vessels with your fingers or a small knife. Handle it gently, as the brain breaks up easily.

Poach it gently in barely simmering water for about 8–10 minutes, until firm and steaming hot throughout. For neat slices, let it cool before cutting and frying.

For an old-fashioned devilled-brain dish, poach and slice it, then fry lightly with mustard and a little cayenne. Serve with toast, parsley and a squeeze of lemon.

Yes. Calf’s brain is a close substitute; poach it gently until firm and steaming hot throughout, then use it in the same dishes.

Keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge at 5°C or below, and use it by its use-by date. If you will not cook it in time, freeze it before that date and thaw it in the fridge.

No. Cook it until steaming hot throughout, and keep raw brain and its juices separate from ready-to-eat foods; the Food Standards Agency advises thorough cooking and careful handling of raw meat.