Butter

Melt it in a pale-coloured pan over medium heat, swirling often. After it foams, watch for golden-brown flecks and a nutty smell; pour it into a cool bowl straight away, as it keeps cooking in the hot pan.

Melt butter gently and let it simmer until the water bubbles away and the milk solids sink to the bottom. Skim off any foam, then carefully pour the clear golden fat through a fine sieve, leaving the solids behind.

Unsalted butter gives you more control over the salt in cakes, biscuits and pastry. If you only have salted butter, reduce the added salt in the recipe; for spreading or finishing vegetables, salted butter is an easy choice.

Keep butter wrapped or in a covered dish in the fridge so it does not absorb other foods’ smells. You can freeze it well wrapped; thaw it in the fridge before using, especially for baking.

Usually, yes: use about 80 g of neutral oil for every 100 g of butter, since butter contains water as well as fat. The cake may be moister but less rich, and oil will not work in recipes that rely on creaming softened butter with sugar.

Toss it with sage and pasta, spoon it over gnocchi, or use it in shortbread and chocolate-chip biscuits for a toasted, nutty flavour. Add lemon juice or a little vinegar at the end to balance its richness.

Butter contains milk solids that brown quickly and can turn bitter over high heat. For a hotter pan, use clarified butter, or combine butter with a little oil and lower the heat once the butter starts to colour.

Butter is made by churning cream until the fat gathers into grains and separates from the liquid buttermilk. The grains are worked together into a smooth mass; salt may be added.