Chocolate Swiss roll

Spread the cocoa sponge thinly and bake at 180°C fan for about 10 minutes; it should spring back when lightly pressed. A few extra minutes can make it dry and harder to roll.

Turn the sponge out while it is still warm onto sugared baking parchment, peel off the lining paper and roll it up with the parchment inside. Let it cool rolled, then unroll gently to add the filling.

Whipped double cream gives a classic soft filling; add a thin layer of raspberry jam beneath it for a fruity contrast. Spread the filling evenly but leave a small border at the edges so it does not squeeze out as you roll.

Keep it covered in the fridge and eat it within two days. Fresh cream should not be left at room temperature for more than two hours.

Yes: wrap an unfilled sponge tightly once cool and freeze it for up to a month for best texture. Defrost it fully before filling; cream-filled rolls can lose their texture after freezing.

Serve a slice with tea or coffee, or add fresh raspberries and a spoonful of crème fraîche for pudding. If the filling is already rich, fruit makes a fresher accompaniment than extra cream.

They are nearly level: plain Swiss roll has 389 kcal per 100 g, compared with 390 kcal per 100 g in chocolate Swiss roll.