Truffles

The truffles shaved over savoury food are underground fungi, related to mushrooms. Chocolate truffles are sweets named for their similar shape and often dusted with cocoa.

Look for one that feels firm and has a strong, earthy aroma. Avoid truffles that feel soft or have damp, damaged patches.

Brush off any soil and shave it thinly over warm food just before serving, so the heat releases its aroma without cooking it away. A truffle shaver or fine slicer gives the delicate slices you want.

You can cook them, but prolonged heat dulls their aroma. For pasta, risotto or scrambled eggs, stir a little truffle through at the end or shave it over the dish at the table.

Wrap it in clean, dry kitchen paper, put it in a sealed container and keep it in the fridge. Change the paper daily and use the truffle within a few days, before its aroma fades.

Its earthy aroma works especially well with buttery scrambled eggs, pasta, risotto and mashed potato. Add it at the end, when the dish is warm, rather than letting it simmer.

There is no exact substitute for fresh truffle. A little truffle oil can give a similar aroma, but it will not provide the same texture; many truffle oils use added flavouring rather than truffle.